Jean-François Piege

In true French style of dining out, guests take their time, spend the night in relaxing mode, and enjoy the meal with no sense of urgency to finish and leave. Jean-François Piege goes so far into elevating the experience at this two Michelin stars restaurant with the dining room designed almost like a cosy living room. Some tables even have comfortable couches instead of chairs. There are only 8 or 9 tables here so do make advance reservations.

We get ready for a night at Jean-François Piege in my dress and pumps, and T in his suit- another reason why we love Paris. Everyday is a reason to look fashionable in this city whether heading to a cafe or swanky restaurant. From the time we arrive until we get up to leave, the service is impeccable. Even the well-tailored and perfectly fitted suits of the servers are pleasing to the eye! We take our time to drain our glasses of pinot blanc champagne aperitif that is lovely and crisp, as recommended by the sommelier. As a surprise element for the dîner gastronomique, the guest chooses to either have 1 or 2 ingredients that will be the focus of all the courses served. The sommelier returns and provides more recommendations based on what we want- red wine by the glass. She shares her knowledge of what they have, which is the heavier red that will mask the flavor of our food and which is the lighter red that will help bring out the flavor of the meal. We go with her recommendation of the pinot noir. Our evening of hors d'oeuvres, 5 entrées, 1 main, 4 desserts, and then 1 more chocolate surprise make an incredibly lovely Parisian time and what we imagine it to be. During the second half of our meal, we are surprised with an additional glass of red and white wines each.

Hors d'oeuvres of smoked salmon with horseradish cream, brandade, foie gras, and ham

Blue crab and frozen chamomile, orange, and soy

French toast with tomato juice, oregano, olives, burrata, and anchovy 

Mediterranean sardines with chanterelle mushrooms

We get ready to leave and one of the servers asks, "Where are you visiting from?" "Oh, we are visiting from the States. Have you been?", I say. "No, the U.S. is my dream", he replies in his lovely French accent. I tell him, "Paris is my dream".




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Jean-François Piege
79 rue Saint Dominique
75007 Paris

Accolades
2013 2-Michelin Stars
2012 2-Michelin Stars

St John

With its very unsuspecting facade and downplayed interior, St John has become one of my most memorable meals in London. We walk into a rustic atmosphere with decor at its most minimal and  imagine how the chef and owner one day decided to turn a small market warehouse into a place to eat. Today this place has achieved the status of a fantastically worthy restaurant without all the pretensions. The menu changes daily and St John's concept focuses on nose-to-tail eating. Here, they come up with great ways to appreciate the preparation and serving of an animal beyond the regular pork tenderloin or steak. Offal get a lot of attention here so if you're in for trying offal and innards, you're in for a delicious time here. Even if you're not so into offal, still give it a try-- who knows, you might leave as a convert?

Our server tells us the special of the day is lamb testicles. Can we get an order for that please? And is it alright to brag that I've eaten lamb testicles now?! The bite-sized pieces are battered and deep fried, with a side of pungent raw garlic dip. The texture is solid and smooth but not dense. There is no smell or any indication that the dish is in fact, lamb testicles. This is one of the reasons that make St John so great. They turn something that people are generally afraid of into something that they eventually learn to like.

The roasted bone marrow proves to be very, very good. We spread it on toast, sprinkle some sea salt over it, and garnish with parsley. Each small of toast with bone marrow is packed with richness.

Roasted bone marrow

 
No words can do justice to the crispy pig cheek and dandelion dish. I dreamt for days about the pig cheeks after our meal at St John. The pig cheeks have the pork crackling attached and the crackling is perfect and crisp while the combined meat and fat from the pig cheeks create a melt-in-the-mouth texture. Such contrasting textures of crispy pork crackling and melt-in-the-mouth pig cheeks...in one bite. The slight bitterness of the dandelion add character to the dish.

Crispy pig cheek and dandelion

Tripe served at Chinese, Vietnamese, and Japanese restaurants are usually on the chewy side with a crunch. Not at St John. The tripe here is the smoothest, most tender, and softest I have had. If anyone gets nervous at the thought of eating tripe and hasn't tried it yet, St John's braised tripe is an excellent introduction to one's palate. The braised dish is prepared with white beans and pieces of pork belly, contributing to the depth of the flavor of the braising liquid.

Braised tripe

Meals can be unforgettable or forgettable. At St John, it is the latter, very much so.




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St John Bar and Restaurant
26 St John St
London EC1M 4AY

Accolades
2013 One Michelin Star
2012 One Michelin Star

Dinner by Heston

Inside the beautifully historic building of the Mandarin Oriental hotel is the restaurant Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. The restaurant is very modern which makes it quite the anti thesis to the hotel it is located in. Mandarin Oriental's facade is so grand and you are really reminded that you are in London while entering the timeless building. Once you enter the restaurant, timelessness gives way to modernity. The large kitchen is separated by ceiling-to-floor glass walls and offers a view of what goes on inside. The wall of the wine cellar is also made of glass from ceiling to floor and showcases the restaurant's vast wine collection.

Everyone who comes here must try the signature meat fruit which is foie gras and chicken liver encased in mandarin jelly. When presented at the table, it looks just like a mandarin fruit. Slice it into half and you will see the foie gras and chicken liver inside. We smear the meat fruit onto toast, take a bite, and discover that it is the smoothest and silkiest foie gras and chicken liver we've had. The thin layer of mandarin jelly on the outside is not tangy but adds a slight hint of flavor to balance out the richness of the meat fruit inside.

Meat fruit

Meat fruit

All things considered, the £39 3-course lunch is quite a deal at this one Michelin star restaurant by Heston Blumental. And, we get to look out at the vast Hyde Park from the dining room, while enjoying the view of casual walkers, runners, and the occasional policemen mounted on horses. The entree of dressed snails with parsley puree, parsnips, beets, and red wine juice has a clean and light taste but with a little less dressing, the flavor of the snails will stand out more. The main course of roasted quail is prepared with cabbage, onion, and smoked chestnut. The meat is absolutely tender and probably one of the most tender quails I've had.

Dressed snails

Roasted quail

My dining partner aka my sister decide on similar entrees and and main courses but for dessert, we opt for one of each from the two given choices. The millionaire tart comes in the form of an olive oil shortbread topped with a layer of chocolate ganache and sprinkled with edible gold chocolate crunch. The ganache is chocolatey enough without being too intense and with the vanilla ice-cream, they come together nicely. The orange buttered loaf is a refreshing end to the meal with its citrus hints. The butter sponge cake loaf is crisp on the outside and spongy on the inside, served with mandarin sorbet.

Millionaire tart

Orange buttered loaf

Solid meal, yes, but not phenomenal and by all means not mind blowing-- I imagine everything of Heston Blumental to be close to mind blowing.....hah! To be fair, Heston is not the executive chef at this restaurant. He helms the kitchen at his three Michelin star restaurant, The Fat Duck. The prix fixe lunch is a great value and if you consider the price, its one Michelin star rating, and the fact that it is a Heston Blumenthal restaurant, a visit to this place is a pretty good deal. Will I return? Probably yes, to try their ala carte menu during dinner time.

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Dinner by Heston
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park
66 Knightsbridge
London SW1X 7LA

Accolades
2012 1-Michelin Star
2013 1-Michelin Star

Sushi Kanesaka

It's February 2013 and we have quite a bit of catching up to do here in this blog. We've traveled quite a bit at the end of 2012 (Istanbul in November, Tokyo and Kyoto in December) and when life gets back to normal in Chicago, it also gets busy. We've had wonderful memories with the very friendly Turkish people, and then a few weeks later experienced the exceptionally gracious hospitality of the Japanese. We couldn't have asked for a better way to cap off 2012. It's February and we still go back in time reminiscing Japan. Wow, wow, and wow.

Sushi Kanesaka

Being able to make it as a sushi chef in Japan is a sign of respect in itself. Being one of the top makes one even more celebrated in this respected profession. Sushi chefs in Japan go through years of training, even up to 10 years. For comparison, a sushi chef in America can land his or her first job after 12-week certification program (oh, shudder). Japanese sushi chefs take their skills seriously and it shows through in their craft. Word is that for Sukiyabashi Jiro (Michelin ***) owned by the venerable Chef Jiro Ono, you should plan on making a reservation up to 1 year ahead and if you are a gaijin who doesn't speak Japanese nor do you have a person fluent in Japanese with you, it is even more difficult to secure a reservation. The very good Sushi Mizutani (Michelin **) is said to not allow cameras as the sushi chef prefers the guest to eat the sushi right when it is served, at the right temperature. Also hailed as one of the best sushi chefs, Chef Shinji Kanesaka of Sushi Kanesaka (Michelin **), is known to be very personable and his restaurant offers a cosy atmosphere without the stern vibe like other places. Chef Kanesaka and his staff speak (basic) English too.

Sushi Kanesaka

Deciding on one splurge-worthy Michelin-starred restaurant in Tokyo can in fact be quite a dilemma. Having the reputation of holding the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, how do we pick which one to go to in Tokyo? After narrowing our options and based on what we felt like, our choice was Sushi Kanesaka (while already secretly hoping for a next trip to Tokyo so we can feast at the other Michelin-starred restaurants). Our reservation was made about 2.5 months ahead, and then we patiently waited until we got to Tokyo.

Chef Shinji Kanesaka

If anyone has been to Tokyo, you would know that the address system there can be pretty confusing. Not all streets have names; street blocks are numbered and buildings are numbered according to how old they are. Like many restaurants in Tokyo, Sushi Kanesaka can be difficult to find. It's located in the basement level of a building with no English signage. It was our first night in Tokyo and armed with our iPad and using the GPS, we saw a koban that we resorted to for directions. Thanks to a Japanese friend who gave us this practical tip before left for Japan: you can approach the koban (police box) for directions. The locals do it all the time. Even the Japanese get confused with their own address system. At the mention of the name Sushi Kanesaka, the police recognized it rightaway and gestured that it was just across the street from where we were standing.





The restaurants seats 14 people at a time. Chef Shinji Kanesaka takes care of the counter section at the back while his assistant chef takes of the front section closer to the entrance. We of course lucked out and was taken care of by Chef Kanesaka himself. In relative terms, Chef Kanesaka is considered young (he's in the 30s) and yet is impressively ranked among the top sushi chefs that are older than him in age. He is personable and occasionally engages in light hearted and brief dialogues in between moments when he puts his skills to work with the sushi knife and fish.

 


What makes Sushi Kanesaka so great is that as much emphasis is placed on the premium quality of fish, a great deal of attention is given to make the sushi rice perfect. When a piece of nigiri is served, the rice is very slightly warm and moist. Not too sticky but enough just to hold the rice together so they don't fall apart. In our mouths we feel each grain of rice and its perfect texture every time we pop a piece of nigiri into our mouths. The quality of the fish is unquestionably excellent and fresh.

The restaurant offers offers two options of omakase with the choice of either ¥20,000 or ¥30,000. Our decision to go with the first option turns out to be a good one. The variety of fish presented is excellent and there are more than enough items to make us so full. 

Raw oyster in the shell

Cod sausage liver

Sea bream

Bonito, with dipping sauce on the side (sweet soy sauce, ginger, scallions)

Steamed clam

Shimaji

When preparing nigiri, the chef traditionally brushes soy sauce over the fish so no additional soy sauce is needed. Nigiri is also traditionally and usually eaten with the hands. Pick up the piece of nigiri and put the whole piece into your mouth in one bite.

Maguro; first soaked in soy sauce, patted dry with paper, then served

O-toro, tuna belly

Ika

Saba

Horse mackerel with dill

Maguro

Baby shrimp

Giant clam

Uni

Ikura; contrasting temperature of cold (ikura) and warm (rice)

Anago; soft and melt-in-the-mouth texture

Rolled maki with minced fish

The meal is capped off with a piece of tamago which sounds far from being indulgent since, you know, it's only egg after all. But the tamago really gave me the urge to say to Chef Kanesaka "This is the best tamago we've had". Inside the tamago the texture is custard-like. Chef Kanesaka's face lights up, smiles humbly, and says "It has shrimp in it". We tasted and saw no shrimp in it but maybe that's the secret to making the best tamago, ever.



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Sushi Kanesaka
Misuzu Bldg B1F 
8-10-3 Ginza

Accolades
2012 2-Michelin Stars
2011 2-Michelin Stars
2010 2-Michelin Stars

Bavette's Bar and Boeuf

Brendan Sodikoff is no stranger to Chicago's dining scene. How is it that each of his restaurants have an almost similar concept (cue words: rustic, vintage, sexy) with familiar menus and yet each of them are equally successful and yet popular? One would have thought that Chicagoans might tire of the same "old" concept by Brendan Sodikoff but no, no. We say bring it on. First it was Gilt Bar, then Maude's Liquor Bar, and then Au Cheval. Now comes Bavette's Bar and Boeuf. Not quite a restaurant, Doughnut Vault which is also his brainchild, became the talk of town on doughnuts. I've lost count the number of times we've been to his restaurants and from our observation, there is just something about the way Brendan Sodikoff runs his restaurants that make it onto the list of favorites among Chicagoans. He has a great eye for selecting who helms the kitchen with a forward vision of the menu, and the employees are well trained. He also promotes his staff from within (at least, this was what we noticed at Bavette's where experienced employees from Gilt Bar were promoted and brought into Bavette's).

 




Oh I am so, so in love with Bavette's. You enter by the inconspicuous door into a tiny space where the host or hostess greets you. Then he or she opens another door inside and you will find yourself in the classic and sexy Bavette's which exudes the aura of a speakeasy in 1930s New York City except that it is in Chicago and tucked behind an inconspicuous door recognizable only by the equally inconspicuous sign that says Bavette's on the door. Just gotta love the dress code for bartenders and male servers-- long sleeved collared shirts with the sleeves folded up to the elbows, tie, and a vest. Classic and sharp, and the folded sleeves add casualness to it.

Cocktails range from the classic to contemporary concoctions. I've found my favorite drink which is the Old Overholt whiskey cocktail and have never moved on to another drink since.

Best lobster and lamb chops I've ever had, says my dad during one of T and my visits to Bavette's when we brought my parents along who were visiting. Isn't there always a sense of accomplishment when you rave about a place and the people you raved to share your sentiments too, especially your parents? Ahhh. The seafood tower (comes in two options differentiated by portion size) is a perfect way to start off the night as an appetizer. Seafood on ice is usually not heavy and hence will not fill you up which makes it an even better choice for starters if you are in a group. The tower comes with various types of oysters, lobster, salmon ceviche, shrimps, and crab legs.

The lamb chops make the night memorable. Prepared and served medium rare with just enough au jus, the meat is succulent and tender. We learnt that Colorado lamb chops are used and instead of entirely removing the fat like what other restaurants usually do, Bavette's keeps a thin layer fat over the meat to help flavor the meat more during the cooking process. The lamb chops come with two piece; each piece is from the left and right rack.

Side dishes are always overlooked but oh my, the baked sweet potato really is something. Once it's brought to the table, who can resist the urge of heaping the very soft sweet potato with melted butter and brown sugar onto their plate? We haven't seen any restaurants offering roasted tomatoes as a side dish; we've however seen a lot of grilled tomatoes in British pubs as part of the English breakfast which we love so much. Credits go to Bavette's again for expanding beyond the more predictable side items (although they do the "predictable" side items so darn well!). The coleslaw is refreshing and light, with just enough dressing.

Other noteworthy dishes that we have tried and are not pictured:

Berkshire pork chop: Berkshire is what wagyu is to beef; the marbling of the pork chops helps to render the fat which increases the flavor of the meat.

Salt cod brandade: We liked very much the fact that we could actually taste actual cod meat in the brandade instead of being all mushed up. Great starter item.

Beef tongue: Prepared like a pot roast, it comes with slivers of carrots and rhubard in a deep flavored sauce.

Smoked whitefish caesar salad: I don't incorporate salads into my diet as much as I should (T is the opposite here) but this I will want to eat everytime.



 

I want to say to people Go, go, go. Or maybe I shouldn't... it has only been a couple of months since their opening and it's already proving quite difficult to make reservations. So the more people know about it, the more difficult it would be for us to snag a table for prime time seating. Oh, but that would be selfish.




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Bavette's
218 West Kinzie Street
Chicago, IL 60654

Accolades

2011 TimeOut Chicago Magazine Best Restaurateur Nominee, Brendan Sodikoff