Harajuku

Harajuku has a strong identity in Tokyo when it comes to extreme teenage fashion and culture. Say the name Harajuku and people all over the world conjure up images of cosplay (costume play) by these Japanese teens who find their haven in this namesake neighborhood. Harajuku and Omotesando are literally next to each other and yet both areas are on the extreme opposite ends of the spectrum from one another. Walking along the tree-lined Omotesando Avenue, one would be reminded that this Tokyo's Champs-Elysees caters to the upper class adulthood. Suddenly you find yourself in Harajuku where teenagers that conform to extreme fashion and culture find their niche. Groups of teenagers into cosplay stake out at the entrance of Yoyogi Park. They can also be seen hanging out and idling on Jingu Bashi (Jingu Bridge). The Japanese are known for some of their wild fashions and the Harajuku teenagers dare to be different as they slip into a different persona during cosplay. The groups stake out on Sunday afternoons so that's the best time for people-watching.

 

If you ever wonder where the Harajuku girls (and guys) shop for clothing, head to Takeshita-dori. This bustling and narrow alley is lined with fashion and accessories shops. In fact, the word bustling may be quite an understatement to describe Takeshita-dori on a Sunday afternoon. But in true Japanese style, however crowded a street may be, it is never chaotic but always orderly. I go to the Takeshita-dori for the many crepe stands. Eating crepe is a popular thing to do on this street. Join the long lines at any crepe stand and then stand at a corner to enjoy the delicious dessert crepes. The lines are long and the area is crowded. But hey, you're in Tokyo and there are no boundaries for crowds. The lines at the crepe stands are efficient so don't be put off by them. You'll be enjoying the crepe in no time.

Maisen Tonkatsu

Maisen Tonkatsu has got the waiting system all figured out systematically. People go here for the tonkatsu (fried breaded pork cutlet) which is reputed to be one of the best in Tokyo. Note: we hear that Tonki also serves one of the best tonkatsu; Tonki has no English menu and Maisen has an English menu with pictures. Located inside a building that once housed a bathhouse during WWII, Maisen Tonkatsu restaurant has two floors. The kitchen and counter seating are downstairs; table seating is upstairs. Cushioned benches are by the wall downstairs and people move along in the seating positions as they move up in line to be seated. The line gets long quick and stretches out onto the stairs that lead to the dining room area upstairs. In Japan where everything is orderly and non-chaotic, Maisen Tonkatsu is no exception. As customers walk in, the polite employees usher the customers to join the line and they wait patiently (and systematically) by the wall. The line moves quick but for an even shorter wait, you can request for counter seating on the ground floor. After standing in line for 10 minutes, T curiously asks one of the employees if we could do kauntaa seki (counter seating) and to which we were unexpectedly seated right away at the counter. Score! Seating at the counter while being able to peak into the kitchen through the curtain-like cloth? Oh, yes.

The pork used at Maisen Tonkatsu are of prized breeds and it shows in the resulting texture and quality of the tonkatsu. Diners choose the breed type and the cut of meat. Rosu cut is loin and hire is fillet. Rosu is a big favorite as the loin has more fat; when the extra fat is rendered during cooking, it helps to keep the pork juicy. We decide on rosu (loin) for both the Okita Kurobota and Kurobota breeds. Though both are loin cuts, the difference between the breeds was noticeable-- the Okita Kurobota loin is a little more moist than the Kurobota loin. The Okita Kurobota is also priced higher than the Kurobota. If you are familiar with Berkshire pork, Kurobota is the Japanese word for it and it is considered the wagyu of pork.

 

The tonkatsu is fried to a perfect and delicate crisp. The meat inside for the Okita Kurobota is juicy and melts in the mouth; the Kurobota is tender and smooth. The meat tastes fresh and there is no hint of re-used or over-used oil taste in the pork cutlet. It really is the best tonkatsu we've ever had. The heaping of cabbage on the side is shredded the finest we've seen. When the shredded cabbage is almost depleted on your plate, the server will gladly top it up again. The meals are served with oshinko (Japanese pickles) and miso soup though the soup specifically for the Okita Kurobota meal is tonjiru (pork soup flavored with miso). The bowl of pork miso soup has thin-shaved pieces of fatty pork, daikon, konnyaku, and negi.

There is an outdoor booth where packed food is available for purchase to take home. The katsu sando (tonkatsu sandwich) is ever delicious. Grab a box and eat it later if you get hungry again from your fulfilling and satisfying lunch inside Maisen Tonkatsu.

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Maisen Tonkatsu

4-8-5 Jingu-mae, 

Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Maisen Tonkatsu is hidden behind the Omotesando Hills shopping center and is located among the narrow streets. Follow the Maisen signs hanging on street poles.

Omotesando Koffee

Omotesando Koffee is not a place where you stumble upon. You end up there because you intentionally seek it out. This itself makes it special. Hidden along the backstreets behind the Omotesando Hills shopping center, one will have to walk through narrow residential streets to get there. We walk along the street of quiet homes where there is no hint of Omotesando Koffee's existence. We faithfully follow the directions of the GPS on our iPad until it leads us to the address that we are looking for.







Inside one of the homes is now converted into an outpost for Omotesando Koffee. We walk into a small tranquil garden that leads us into the house where this pop-up coffee place is.





Omotesando Koffee is an espresso sanctuary. Right as we step inside, there is a setup that looks like an "open box" where the espresso machine and counter are. The owner carefully works to produce a good cup of coffee for each order. The set up is minimalistic which puts us right in the calm and serene mood for a good cup of espresso. The "living room" is where the coffee counter is. To the right are two rooms which presumably used to be bedrooms before the existence of Omotesando Koffee in this house. One of the rooms is set up as a reading space with shelves along the wall filled with books. The other room has a zen quality to it, perhaps just for relaxation purposes. We saw no one in these rooms though. Other than these setups, there are no tables or chairs. There is, however, a wooden bench in the garden outside. We are content with standing by the side of the counter and chat up the very humble owner.

We learn that Omotesando Koffee has been in business for 2 years. Mr Kunitomo, the owner and barista, asked how we knew about this place and we say Online. Website. We tell him that Bill Grainger, the famous chef from Sydney, mentioned that Omotesando Koffee has the best coffee that he has tried in the world. Mr Kunitomo smiles widely, looks humbled, and says thank you very much. He then tells us that Bill Grainger and Tyler Brûlé, the editor of Monocle magazine, are friends. He says to us the word article while gesturing to this coffee place. Ah, Tyler Brûlé had written an article about Omotesando Koffee in a previous issue of Monocle.


 

Showing interest about coffee in another part of the world, Mr Kunitomo asks us about coffee in Chicago. We lamented that though there are several good coffee shops back in Chicago, the overall standard of coffee is not comparable to other parts of the world that we've been to where people take the quality of coffee very seriously such as in Australia. In the U.S., people generally drink a lot of drip brew coffee and in Australia, drip brew coffee is practically non-existent as only espresso-based drinks are consumed. Mr Kunitomo comments that drip brew coffee is also popular in Japan though the espresso trend is starting to pick up. As for T and I, we love a good cup of coffee made from espresso. We want to be able to taste and appreciate the full and robust flavors; we're just not able to do that when chugging down a cup of drip brew coffee. So, Omotesando Koffee hits the right spot with us in Tokyo.

There are robust and full flavors from my espresso solo and T's espresso macchiato. We sip, savor, and chat with the very personable and humble owner of Omotesando Koffee. It is obvious that he is passionate about what he does and is not afraid to take risks. In a place like Japan where the espresso trend is only starting to pick up, he creates this pop-up place hoping to be part of the growing process where quality and well-crafted espresso drinks are available to the locals. Kashi, the baked custard square, is a unique feature of this place. The outside texture is solid and crisp; the inside is like melted custard. Get a piece or two and enjoy it with the coffee.

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Omotesando Koffee
4-15-3, Jingumae
Shibuya, Tokyo


It is highly recommended that to find your way to Omotesando Koffee, you have a map or preferably a GPS with you. It is located just about a 3-min walk from the famous Maisen Tonkatsu restaurant.

Tokyo's Omotesando

Put simply, Omotesando is Tokyo's answer to Paris' Champs-Élysées. The name Omotesando encompasses the neighborhood, avenue, and yes, even the Metro train station for the area. It gives a peak into the upscale life of Tokyo as the love for designer labels are clearly showcased along Omotesando Avenue. Designer labels have planted their flagship stores here and their award-winning architectural buildings is a reason enough to spend a leisure afternoon strolling along the tree-lined street of Omotesando Avenue. Intersecting this street is Aoyama-dori, another street with more upscale stores and buildings to feast your eyes on. Whether you're here to spend some cash inside the stores or to capture the architectural showcase along the street, it will be a lovely afternoon spent here. Impressive architectural structures to look out for include Prada in a crystal shard building and Cartier in a diamond-shaped building (how appropriate!).  

Fashion aside, Pierre Herme whom I like to call the god of macarons, also has his name-sake macaron boutique's flagship in this neighborhood. The Pierre Herme Paris flagship boutique in Tokyo displays the macarons for purchase on the ground level; a chocolate bar is upstairs.
Fact of the day: Pierre Herme's first macaron boutique was opened in Tokyo. Only a few years later did he open his namesake macaron boutique in his city of residence in Paris.

 


Wander off Omotesando Avenue and stroll along the backstreets and narrow alleys especially behind the Omotesando Hills shopping center and you will forget that you are in the metropolitan city of Tokyo. Oblivious to the busy Omotesando Avenue, the backstreets and alleys have lives of their own from the tiny shops, restaurants, and quiet residences that are seen as you veer to the right or left at each corner. Wander. Explore. You will discover gems. Find your way to Omotesando Koffee and Maisen Tonkatsu.

 
Step out of the backstreets with lives of their own, get back onto Omotesando Avenue and once again you are reminded again that you are in the metropolis of Tokyo. You are reminded once again that you are in a place where international influences and traditional Japanese culture co-exist. The city of perpetual crowds at anytime and anywhere, but never a hint of chaos. Instead, no matter how big the crowd, both human and vehicular traffic are always in order in this place where society conforms to social order and etiquette.