Nagi Ramen Golden Gai

We walk along the very narrow alleyways of Golden Gai in Shinjuku, Tokyo looking for Nagi Ramen until we recognize the signage.  A young male employee in a Barbour jacket is standing at the entrance of the narrow stairs that lead to the ramen shop upstairs. I say to him "ramen?" and he asks if we speak Japanese. T tells him "sukoshi." He then tells us to please head upstairs to buy our ramen tickets first and then gestures us to join the line of customers after purchasing the tickets. We look in the direction of his hand gesture and see what we did not even realize before: a line of customers standing in a very dim alleyway so narrow that it only has space for a single line. The existence of the alleyway is not intentional; it happens to be a tight space between two buildings.

We walk up the rickety and narrow stairs to the ramen shop, each step of the stairs is not wide enough to rest the entire foot on. We get to the top and buy our ramen tickets from the vending machine (it is common practice to "order" and pay for your ramen through a vending machine so that the chef does not have to handle change). Then we walk down the stairs and join the line in the alleyway.

About 30 minutes later, the young man standing by the stairs gestures us upstairs to get seated. Ramen shops in Tokyo are generally tight spaced and Nagi Ramen is literally a hole in the wall. We have no complains, it adds to better socializing atmosphere for us at this 10-seater ramen shop. Once we're seated, we don't even think about moving about. We are there just to enjoy the ramen moment

Nagi Ramen specializes in tonkotsu broth flavored with sardines. The broth is pungent and the sardines flavor is strong. The taste is unlike anything we've had before. We've had quite a lot of tonkotsu ramen but when pork bones and sardines come together in the Nagi way, it transforms the broth to a whole new flavor. Behind the counter are two employees; one prepares the ramen and the other serves the ramen over the counter.

Preparing ramen has to be precise. For each batch, the noodles are placed on a weighing scale to get the right amount of noodles. Then, the noodles are placed in boiling water and the timer starts. Having the right amount of noodle with the right cooking time ensures consistency in reaching the ideal noodle texture. We get the special niboshi ramen and the tsukemen (dipping ramen). The noodle has an addictive chewy texture that shows that the noodle is freshly made. Each bowl has a few sheets of thin and slightly wide "noodle" that is very reminiscent of gyoza skin which I like very much. The pungent broth makes it the most memorable ramen we've had, and probably one of the best we've had.

One of the employees behind the counter asks if we are in Tokyo for vacation. He then says to us, "Working?" (at least he didn't mistake us for being students). We tell him yes, and he makes a guess and says "Engineer?" A wild guess definitely but far from accurate. We tell him it's our second time in Tokyo and the city is tanoshii. He smiles and agrees with us. I point to my bowl of my ramen and say "Best." He nods happily and the other employee preparing the ramen overhears and smiles to himself.

We are more than satisfied after our meal and as we carefully walk down the narrow stairs, the employee who is still supervising the line downstairs surprises us by saying "Take care."


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Nagi Ramen
Shinjuku Golden-gai (G2 street) 2F, 1-1-10, Kabukicho
Shinjuku-ku,Tokyo

Kinryu Ramen

Standing by the street with a bowl of steaming hot tonkotsu ramen on a cold wintry evening in Osaka is one of the reasons that make going out in the cold okay and yes, even enjoyable. At this standing-only and street-side location of Kinryu Ramen, we're in our coats and getting comfort from the steam wafting through the air and towards our faces while watching the young man methodically prepare bowls and bowls of ramen.

Kinryu is easily recognizable by its signature 3-D green dragon billboard. Buy your ramen ticket from the vending machine and choose between regular tonkotsu ramen or with extra chashu pork. Hand over your ticket to the man and wait.

Bowls of chives kimchi, cabbage kimchi, and raw garlic are on the counter for anyone who wishes to add spoonfuls of these condiments over the ramen. The tonkotsu broth is lighter than the usually rich cloudy color but still flavorful enough. Sure, Kinryu may not win the most mind blowing ramen award but it still makes good ramen. And, really, this is what we need: a reliable go-to spot to refuel with a Japanese staple.

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Kinryu Ramen
1-7-13 Nanba
Chuo-ku, Osaka
Open 24 hours

Kinryu Ramen has several locations. This particular location is just outside Dotonbori. Another popular location is along Dotonbori itself and it has seating (outdoors only) on raised tatami mats.

Gogyo Ramen

As one of Kyoto's ramen landmarks, don't fret if you get to Gogyo and see a line of people waiting for a table. Any ramen place worth going to in Japan has a line and the good thing is that turnovers are fast. The lines always move along quickly as people go in, slurp up their noodles, and are on their way. If you are really hungry, Nishiki Market is just steps away to get a snack while waiting. Gogyo not like a typical old school ramen shop but instead has a contemporary Japanese decor which is indeed interesting since everything about Kyoto is heritage and traditional. Don't let the contemporary design detract you from it's really, really good ramen though.

What makes Gogyo special is their well known signature kogashi (burnt ramen) that is prepared with lard flambeed in 300 degrees Celcius. The result from this genius method is a very dark colored and deeply flavored ramen broth, complete with hints of charred flavors. Naturally, the broth is very hot in temperature when served so be careful as you take your first spoonful of broth. The broth base comes with the option of either shoyu (Japanese soy sauce) or miso. At Gogyo, thin strand noodles are used and the chashu (pork slices) are very tender.

Aside from their signature kogashi (burnt ramen), Gogyo also shines in their yuzu-flavored gyozas which turn out to be the best gyozas we have had. The dumplings are pan-fried to a perfect crisp on the skin that is already so delicate and thin. Dumplings are often judged by the thickness of their skin (high quality dumplings have a thin wrapper skin so that the focus is on the filling) and Gogyo has gotten their yuzu-flavored gyoza completely right. We dab some wasabi onto the gyoza, dip the dumpling into some soy sauce, and then easily bite into it through it's delicate skin.

Karaage (Japanese fried chicken) can be ordered on the side with a bowl of rice. These crisp-at-every-bite and very flavorful pieces of fried chicken complete the meal experience at Gogyo.



--
Gogyo Ramen
452 Jumonji-cho
Kyoto


Note: Very little English is spoken at Gogyo but an English menu is available. 

Tokyo Station: So much more than a train station

Tokyo Station is so much more than a train station. Inside is a maze of underground passages (or "streets") filled with retail shops, restaurants, cafes, and izakayas. In fact, Tokyo Station is quite a destination in itself. Inside the station is an area called Ichibangai (First Avenue), directly connected to the Yaesu exit, that makes up 3 floors of retail and restaurants that can keep an afternoon busy. Hanging out at a train station? Why, yes, it is possible at Tokyo Station. It is true when people say that there is nothing the Japanese have not thought of creating and doing.

*Tokyo Ramen Street*
Basement floor, South Street

Rokurinsha

On the basement level of Ichibangai is Tokyo Ramen Street where 8 renowned ramen shops congregate. The line of people standing and waiting outside Rokurinsha is perpetual and judging from this it is no secret that one of the best tsukemen (dipping ramen) in Tokyo can be found here. Once you get to Tokyo Ramen Street inside the station, Rokurinsha is really easy to spot-- you only have to look for the shop with the longest line of people to know that you are at the right place. This makes it pretty useful if you don't read Japanese and are not sure which shop is Rokurinsha. Word is that the owner of Rokurinsha previously operated the store in a neighborhood and because of the perpetual line that wrapped around the block, complaints from neighboring shops arose. As a result, the owner relocated Rokurinsha to Tokyo Ramen Street inside Tokyo Station's Ichibangai.







Rokurinsha opens as early as 7:30am for breakfast until 10:00am and reopening the rest of the day from 11:00am to 10:30pm. We get there just before 8:00am and despite the day being early, there is already a line for us to join. The line moves quick and we hardly feel like we are waiting much at all. People go in, slurp up the tsukemen, and then leave to go about their day, commute, and work in Tokyo. The system at Rokurinsha is like other ramen shops in Japan. We order, pay, and get our ramen tickets from the vending machine located at the entrance of the shop. An employee takes your ticket and hands it to the kitchen.

Tsukemen is a form of dipping ramen; the noodles and broth are served in separate bowls. The noodles are dipped into the broth and then slurped into the mouth. Because it is used for dipping and not so much for drinking straight up from a spoon, the broth for tsukemen has a more intense flavor than when the broth and noodle are served together in a bowl like the other variations of ramen.  Rokurinsha's tsukemen is certainly not less than perfect. The thick noodles are al dente with the right amount of chewy texture. The noodles are boiled just long enough to achieve this right level, not any less nor more. The dipping broth has depth in flavor and with the complex burst of flavors there is a very slight zesty hint.

In the corner is a table with a pot of the dipping broth if anyone wants more. There is also a separate pot of warm water in the corner and a popular way to end the meal is to ladle some warm water into your bowl of remaining dipping broth to dilute it for drinking as soup. After having one of the best tsukemen here at Rokurinsha, we are afraid that our future tsukemen meals will have a hard time matching up. Who knew that we could eat something so great at a train station and that meal turns out to be the best in its kind that we've had? In Japan it is possible.


Menya Shichisai/Edoama

Also located on Tokyo Ramen Street is the shop that goes by Menya Shichisai by day and Edoama by evening. Shoyu ramen (soy sauce flavored) is served during the day and miso ramen in the evening. Like any ramen shop, customers order, pay, and get the ramen tickets from the vending machine at the entrance of the shop. An employee of the shop readily takes the ramen tickets and hands it to the kitchen. We visit for a late breakfast when shoyu ramen is being served. The chashu pork is tender and the optional addition of the tamago (egg) is skillfully made with the orange yolk soft and runny. The broth is very well balanced between its savory and light flavors, just perfect to start a cold December morning.

*Gochiso Plaza*

Second floor

Another section of Ichibangai at Tokyo Station is dedicated to izakaya restaurants. These drinking establishments serve a variety of food in small portions meant to complement the drinks and long conversations with your dining companions. Visit any izakaya in Tokyo and you will experience a part of life that is prevalent in the Japanese culture. Start with some sake, biru (beer), or shochu (distilled alcoholic beverage) and you are off to a great time. Order some food to share and take your time to eat your way through the food on your table. Izakaya restaurants are where casual moments come to stay.

We decide on sake and take our time through a plate of ika (squid) sashimi, a small bowl of konnyaku (Japanese root jelly) and tofu stew, and a serving of fried octopus legs.

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The most unforgettable item is the beautifully sliced and presented whole fish sashimi-style. Just between the two of us, we have no difficulty in finishing every slice of fish on the plate and then dreaming more of it after. The next time someone says Tokyo is an expensive city, we get to say But we just had a plate of whole fish sashimi-style at an izakaya for only ¥780 (~US$8.30)!

Catching a train is certainly not the only reason one needs to go to Tokyo Station.

Kinmaru Ramen

With a bigger reputation for luxury shopping and lavish dining, Ginza may not have earned a spot on the list of Tokyo areas for cheap eats or ramen shops. That is not to say that these gems don't exist in Ginza. They do. They just don't dominate Ginza. There is a place for excellent tonkotsu ramen in Ginza and that is at Kinmaru. Thanks to some web search and ramen blogs, this place is a wonderful find.

We walk in, select and pay for our choices at the vending machine located right at the door. Our ramen tickets are dispensed from the vending machine. We go up to the counter and get a seat for ourselves. Aren't ramen shops in Japan fun that way? As soon as we are seated, one of the two men working behind the counter (which is also the kitchen) walks over and takes our ramen tickets. He then proceeds to ask us a question in Japanese and of course we suddenly blank out on what he is asking. We say to him "Eigo o hanasemasu ka?" (Do you speak English?) and then to find out that he doesn't. He then proceeds to prepare our ramen behind the counter. We make ourselves comfortable on the high top seats and then of course only at this time we finally realize what he just tried to ask us: how firm we'd like our noodles to be. At Kinmaru, the noodles can be boiled up to 5 different levels of firmness depending on the diner's preference. We learnt about this from Ramenate before heading to Kinmaru and then only to forget to say bari (hard) to the young man working at Kinmaru. I imagine it to be quite a challenge for the young man, a Japanese-only speaking person, to attempt asking and describing in English the different al dente levels that can be prepared for the noodles! Note: According to Ramenate, the 5 options are: yawame, bari, bari bari (very hard), mecha bari (super hard), and kona otoshi (noodles are plunged into boiling water just long enough to remove the flour).

My bowl of tonkotsu ramen and T's order of tsukemen arrive, and the noodles are presumably boiled to a default level of the normal or popular choice. At Kinmaru, tonkotsu ramen is served with thin-strand noodles while thicker noodles are used for tsukemen. For tsukemen, the noodles and broth are served separately with the purpose of dipping the noodles into the bowl of intensely flavored bowl of broth before getting slurped into the mouth. The noodles for my tonkotsu ramen are somewhere between soft and firm; T's noodles for his tsukemen go toward the firm side. The tonkotsu broth is deliciously flavorful without the slightest hint of a porky smell that could be a potential turn-off. It's rich without being too thick if you wanted to drink the broth up until the last drop. In addition to the slices of chashu pork that have come to be expected of ramen, a spoonful of stewed pork belly is added to the bowl. The noodles for the tsukemen come with a good amount of different toppings instead of the usual plain serving of noodles. Besides the chashu pork, there are sprouts, nori (seaweed), and scallions.

How do you make a tasty bowl of ramen even more tasty? On the counter are bowls of condiments-- raw garlic cloves (with garlic press) and pickled vegetables. We press some raw garlic into our noodles and they noticeably perk up the already tasty broth. As for the pickled vegetables, I like to eat them straight from my spoon to my mouth without mixing them with my noodles. But that's just me.

--
Kinmaru
1-13-10 Ginza

Look for the two standing white banners at the entrance.

Ginza

Oh, the glamorous Ginza of Tokyo. A lot of things associated with Ginza is luxury-- flagship stores, prestigious departmental stores. Say the name Ginza and Tokyoites understand that the area is known for fine dining rather than cheap eats. This is the place to shop but if you're not looking to spend your money here, the fashion stores make good eye candy.

 

Join the very orderly crowds along Chuo-dori, the main shopping street of Ginza. On weekends and holidays, the street is closed to vehicles and the only traffic you'll see is the human kind strolling on Chuo-dori. Off the main streets is Namiki-dori, a quieter street where high-end designer labels and art galleries are.

Fine dining options abound our a stellar dinner at Sushi Kanesaka, a restaurant with two Michelin stars. Take time to wander off along the side and back streets and you will be pleasantly surprised to find several amazing affordable and cheap eats. They may not dominate Ginza but they make neighborhood gems. We wander into a standing-only udon shop for breakfast, a basement izakaya with Okinawan food for a late lunch, and a ramen shop for a soul-satisfying dinner of tonkotsu ramen. Make time for bakeries and cafes, another aspect that Ginza is known for. Kimuraya is not a secret and locals go there for the anpan (sweet bread with red bean paste filling). Maker of the original anpan, Kimuraya produces their bread by using sakadane which is the yeast that makes sake. There is something for everyone in Ginza.

Okinawa-style izakaya

Kinmaru ramen shop

Udon shop

Ramen Santouka

For the ramen aficionados, Santouka needs no introduction. For the unfortunate ones not in the know, you will be curious to see the perpetual line of people waiting outside this restaurant in downtown Vancouver regardless of the time of day. Japanese international students, as you will see, make up most of the crowd seeking the quality of ramen at Santouka. This name is nothing new. In fact, it is a ramen chain that originated in Japan with locations in different parts of the world. It is, however, not your run-off-the-mill chain. Santouka has friggin' excellent ramen and the Japanese know it.

Bonito+scallions+seaweed on rice, shoyu-flavored tonkatsu ramen

Miso-flavored tonkatsu ramen

The resulting process of simmering the pork bones for 20 hours is an excellently silky and robust tasting broth. The complexity of the smooth flavor shines through at every spoonful. The highlight of Santouka's broth was that the final taste of the simmered broth from various ingredients did not end up like a whole bunch of ingredients were just boiled together resulting in a homogenous flavor. Instead, the parts of the sum (I'm attempting to do a wordplay on sum of the parts!) were competing to shine through.

At other ramen restaurants, you choose among the flavors of shio, shoyu, miso, or tonkatsu. At Santouka, one of things that make them unique is that all the ramen selections have tonkatsu as their base broth and you get to choose how you would like your tonkatsu broth to be further flavored: shio, shoyu, or miso. We loved this take on serving ramen with a 20-hour broth and then further enhancing it with the various individual flavors that would otherwise be a standalone flavor in itself at other ramen restaurants.

Santouka is also well known for their tokusen toriniku ramen (which we unfortunately did not get a chance to try this time round) with the toppings served separately on a side plate. The meat for this ramen is pork cheek.





The texture of the noodles at Santouka are cooked to medium hard by default. We thought it was perfect to our liking with a nice balance between soft and hard, but trending more than medium. They do state on the menu that if you prefer your noodles to be softer or harder, then inform your server as they will be more than happy to cater to that since noodle texture is very much an individual matter of preference.

Order a side of rice bowl to complement your ramen. As if the ramen is not already very satisfying, the Japanese rice bowls add a great touch to your ramen pilgrimage. Among the choices are the bonito, scallions, and seaweed rice bowl and the salmon roe rice bowl.

When the bowl of ramen arrives at the table, pick up your chopsticks, and start slurping. As loud as you can.



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Ramen Santouka
1690 Robson St
Vancouver, BC V6G 1C7

Ramen Yamadaya

Don't be confused by the slightly misleading sign that is big enough to see from far away that says "20 Hours Tonkatsu Ramen." Blame it on the vague wording, T's co-worker once asked, Why would a ramen place open 20 hours a day? No, that isn't what the sign is trying to tell you. Ramen Yamadaya dedicates 20 hours everyday in boiling at the highest temperature the broth with pork bones. The resulting pork bone broth is rich in flavor and creamy in color. Preparing the broth should never be underestimated as it can make or break a bowl of ramen and Ramen Yamadaya gets it. Ramen Yamadaya in L.A. made me crave for it even after a week of returning to Chicago.

Ramen Yamadaya has several locations in L.A. and the one we went to was in Westwood. It was lunchtime and people in business suits and dresses were there seeking the tonkatsu ramen as much as students from the nearby University of California- Los Angeles campus. For those dining alone at Ramen Yamadaya, there is a short stretch of counter seating with the table top narrow enough in width just to place the bowl of ramen and perhaps a side order.

How the menu works is that you choose the type of broth and all of them are tonkatsu-based broth. I am a purist so I went with the original tonkatsu ramen which came with the basic pork bones broth. Don't let the word basic undermine your initial impression of it's flavor. My ramen was absolutely tasty and intense in flavor. Every spoonful of broth that went into my mouth was delightful. There was also an option to choose the level of spiciness and I went with Level 2 which came with a dollop of chilli paste and a spoonful of chilli powder on top of the ramen. For T's ramen, he chose the tonkatsu shoyu broth which came drizzled with black garlic oil over the ramen. Additional ramen toppings can be ordered such as chashu pork, pork belly, or pork loin.

Though not mentioned in the menu, if you love garlic, be sure to request for a side of raw garlic cloves. The small plate will be brought to your table along with the garlic press and simply add some crushed raw garlic into the ramen. We tried a little bit of our ramen prior to adding the garlic just so that we could compare the taste of the ramen with and without the garlic, and no doubt the garlic added a kick to the ramen.

A place that prides itself with boiling the tonkatsu ramen broth for 20 hours has our vote.


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Ramen Yamadaya (has several locations in the L.A. area)
1248 Westwood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90024