Under the Yurakucho train tracks

 

One of the most interesting aspects that makes Tokyo "Tokyo" is the hundreds of eating and drinking establishments located in hidden spots, along alleyways, or under train tracks. As hidden or secretive the location may appear to be to someone who does not live in this city, these establishments are everyday joints that locals frequent. Under the JR Yurakucho train tracks are a long stretch of yakitori restaurants, ramen spots, and bars from the northern to southern sections of the tracks. On weekdays especially, it is a popular spot for salarymen after work before catching the train home as part of their everyday commute. Establishments are found on the outer side of the tracks facing the main road. More treasure troves of drinking and eating spots that are not visible from the main road can be explored on foot as you make your way underneath the tracks and into pedestrian tunnels and alleyways. Our November visit here is cold but there is no stopping the Japanese from enjoying a night out with friends outdoors. Friends, food and drinks (Highball is a popular choice among the salarymen) are all that matters.

We explore the maze of alleyways and decide on a random spot that catch our eyes. It is 9pm and most tables are already filled but we manage to score two seats at an outermost corner section of the tightly spaced restaurant. At 10pm, the place is completely filled. The late comers have to settle with the standing corner tables. Besides biru (beer), people are drinking glasses of Highball one after another. Everyone is happy. Funny conversations seem to be taking place all round as evidenced by the atmosphere, voices, and laughter.

We order items of yakitori to go with our beer. The grilled reba (chicken liver) remains one of the best liver items I've had- it is very lightly grilled on the outside so that the inside remains rare to medium rare. Topped with a pinch of fresh root wasabi, the texture and flavor of the liver is very memorable. The enoki-wrapped chicken and tsukune (ground chicken), though a seemingly safe choices, are not boring because they are done so well. Our favorite is the bacon-wrapped chives with its perfect balance of saltiness from the bacon and natural flavors from the chives to balance out the bacon. The Japanese sweet potato fries are so addictive with beer, they're a must-have.

Though primarily a night spot, there are some establishments that are open in the day. Breakfast one morning for us is at a standing-only ramen shop under the JR Yurakucho train tracks- we pay at the vending machine, hand our tickets to the man behind the counter, and wait for our shoyu ramen and side of kare raisu (Japanese curry rice). One will never go hungry in Tokyo.

Tokyo Station: So much more than a train station

Tokyo Station is so much more than a train station. Inside is a maze of underground passages (or "streets") filled with retail shops, restaurants, cafes, and izakayas. In fact, Tokyo Station is quite a destination in itself. Inside the station is an area called Ichibangai (First Avenue), directly connected to the Yaesu exit, that makes up 3 floors of retail and restaurants that can keep an afternoon busy. Hanging out at a train station? Why, yes, it is possible at Tokyo Station. It is true when people say that there is nothing the Japanese have not thought of creating and doing.

*Tokyo Ramen Street*
Basement floor, South Street

Rokurinsha

On the basement level of Ichibangai is Tokyo Ramen Street where 8 renowned ramen shops congregate. The line of people standing and waiting outside Rokurinsha is perpetual and judging from this it is no secret that one of the best tsukemen (dipping ramen) in Tokyo can be found here. Once you get to Tokyo Ramen Street inside the station, Rokurinsha is really easy to spot-- you only have to look for the shop with the longest line of people to know that you are at the right place. This makes it pretty useful if you don't read Japanese and are not sure which shop is Rokurinsha. Word is that the owner of Rokurinsha previously operated the store in a neighborhood and because of the perpetual line that wrapped around the block, complaints from neighboring shops arose. As a result, the owner relocated Rokurinsha to Tokyo Ramen Street inside Tokyo Station's Ichibangai.







Rokurinsha opens as early as 7:30am for breakfast until 10:00am and reopening the rest of the day from 11:00am to 10:30pm. We get there just before 8:00am and despite the day being early, there is already a line for us to join. The line moves quick and we hardly feel like we are waiting much at all. People go in, slurp up the tsukemen, and then leave to go about their day, commute, and work in Tokyo. The system at Rokurinsha is like other ramen shops in Japan. We order, pay, and get our ramen tickets from the vending machine located at the entrance of the shop. An employee takes your ticket and hands it to the kitchen.

Tsukemen is a form of dipping ramen; the noodles and broth are served in separate bowls. The noodles are dipped into the broth and then slurped into the mouth. Because it is used for dipping and not so much for drinking straight up from a spoon, the broth for tsukemen has a more intense flavor than when the broth and noodle are served together in a bowl like the other variations of ramen.  Rokurinsha's tsukemen is certainly not less than perfect. The thick noodles are al dente with the right amount of chewy texture. The noodles are boiled just long enough to achieve this right level, not any less nor more. The dipping broth has depth in flavor and with the complex burst of flavors there is a very slight zesty hint.

In the corner is a table with a pot of the dipping broth if anyone wants more. There is also a separate pot of warm water in the corner and a popular way to end the meal is to ladle some warm water into your bowl of remaining dipping broth to dilute it for drinking as soup. After having one of the best tsukemen here at Rokurinsha, we are afraid that our future tsukemen meals will have a hard time matching up. Who knew that we could eat something so great at a train station and that meal turns out to be the best in its kind that we've had? In Japan it is possible.


Menya Shichisai/Edoama

Also located on Tokyo Ramen Street is the shop that goes by Menya Shichisai by day and Edoama by evening. Shoyu ramen (soy sauce flavored) is served during the day and miso ramen in the evening. Like any ramen shop, customers order, pay, and get the ramen tickets from the vending machine at the entrance of the shop. An employee of the shop readily takes the ramen tickets and hands it to the kitchen. We visit for a late breakfast when shoyu ramen is being served. The chashu pork is tender and the optional addition of the tamago (egg) is skillfully made with the orange yolk soft and runny. The broth is very well balanced between its savory and light flavors, just perfect to start a cold December morning.

*Gochiso Plaza*

Second floor

Another section of Ichibangai at Tokyo Station is dedicated to izakaya restaurants. These drinking establishments serve a variety of food in small portions meant to complement the drinks and long conversations with your dining companions. Visit any izakaya in Tokyo and you will experience a part of life that is prevalent in the Japanese culture. Start with some sake, biru (beer), or shochu (distilled alcoholic beverage) and you are off to a great time. Order some food to share and take your time to eat your way through the food on your table. Izakaya restaurants are where casual moments come to stay.

We decide on sake and take our time through a plate of ika (squid) sashimi, a small bowl of konnyaku (Japanese root jelly) and tofu stew, and a serving of fried octopus legs.

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The most unforgettable item is the beautifully sliced and presented whole fish sashimi-style. Just between the two of us, we have no difficulty in finishing every slice of fish on the plate and then dreaming more of it after. The next time someone says Tokyo is an expensive city, we get to say But we just had a plate of whole fish sashimi-style at an izakaya for only ¥780 (~US$8.30)!

Catching a train is certainly not the only reason one needs to go to Tokyo Station.

Dehbiru Okinawa, an izakaya on the sidestreets of Ginza

Sometimes the best things are when they are stumbled upon and unaccompanied by expectations. Among the sea of fine dining options that make up Ginza's reputation, we find this true gem of an izakaya (drinking establishment that serves food) that serves Okinawan food. Fine dining it is not, but good and affordable food and drinks here make good times.

 

We are led to the basement by a set of narrow stairs with walls filled with shochu bottles. Once at the basement, we open the door to the izakaya where a seemingly endless number of shochu bottles line the walls.

This place specializes in shochu cocktails as evidenced by the proud display of shochu varieties on the wall. We opt to stick with beer. We start with some Orion beer, an Okinawan beer, and then put in an order for some food to go with our drinks. At an izakaya, the general idea is that food accompanies the drinks rather than the drinks accompanying the food. A simple dish of cold tofu topped with tiny cured fish can be this satisfying. The tofu is unseasoned and just perfect to complement the cured fish. The purple yam croquette is every bit memorable with its outer fried layer that is more on the chewy crisp side instead of a light crisp. The yam inside is smooth and creamy. We can easily have a double order of the yam croquettes. We can't say no to purple yam. The other dish of whole fish is butterflied, resulting in a beautiful-looking fried fish with its curved shape. Whether the shape is artistically intentional or not, we do not know.

Little English is spoken here but we manage to get by with our basic knowledge of Japanese words with gesturing and pointing. They have an English menu but it does not represent the entire food selection from the Japanese menu. The Japanese menu has some pictures which are helpful. Towards the end of the meal we ask the server the name of the izakaya and he brings over the establishment's business card printed in Japanese. He then writes the romaji words (romanization of the Japanese language) "D Biru Okinawa" on the card. With these few romanized words we just learned, we now know the name to call this inconspicuous izakaya along the side streets of Ginza... the place where we can get a taste of Okinawa without traveling to the southernmost prefecture of Japan.






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Dehbiru Okinawa
Asahi Building B1, 3-8-10, Ginza, 
Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 104-0061