Kaymakçı Pando

 

Beşiktaş [buh-shik-tash]. If you're a soccer enthusiast, like T is, the Turkish soccer team comes to mind when speaking about this neighborhood in Istanbul. There is nothing touristy about Beşiktaş and perhaps that is also why it makes this neighborhood charming to get a glimpse of local Istanbullu life. Now when we speak about Beşiktaş, it also conjures up memories of very, very good kaymak (Turkish clotted cream).

The space inside Kaymakçı Pando is tiny and run by the very gentle and elderly Pando and his wife. The bright blue door and the line of people waiting for a table especially on weekends make it easily recognizable. Kaymakçı Pando serves one of the best kaymak and this place has been in business for about 50 years with no change in ownership. A young Turkish fellow ahead of us in line asked how we knew about this place. Oh, from food blogs, we tell him. He responds that people in the online community really like Kaymakçı Pando. We chat in line and upon hearing that T grew up in Singapore, our new acquaintance expresses his desire to be in a student exchange program with Singapore. Traveling to Asia is difficult, he says, and this will be his chance to do it. He recommends us his favorite fish restaurant in Istanbul and writes it down in paper for us. Conversations with locals... always make great memories for us when traveling.

We stand in line and peek through the glass window where Pando's wife constantly scoops a spoonful of kaymak and honey onto each plate as the orders come in from the tables. In between that, she ladles up warm inek sütü [ee-neck su-tu], cow's milk into small drinking glasses. After a quick wait standing in line, Pando comes out to tell us we could get inside to be seated. Of course he says that in Turkish which we could not quite understand but the group of young fellows behind kindly translated that to us in English.

English is barely spoken at Kaymakçı Pando, if at all, but do not let that intimidate you. We learnt some useful words which helped us go quite a long way when ordering food even if it meant that we were not speaking in complete sentences. As long as you can get the point across, that counts, right?







The kaymak is absolutely divine. We smear it and the accompanying honey onto a slice of bread and we're in clotted cream heaven. Not quite as thick as the kaymak at Karaköy Özsüt, but Kaymakçı Pando still makes very, very good and creamy kaymak which I will return to. I'm not sure if I will ever come to a point where I've had enough of kaymak. Who cares about the cold and wet weather outside when we are having a glass of warm inek sütü (cow's milk) and some çay [chai], Turkish tea, inside. Request for the fried eggs to be prepared with sucuk [soo-jook] which is a spicy Turkish sausage. The eggs are crisp on the edges and the thin layer of oil that is flavored from the sausage when cooking enhances the taste of something so simple like fried eggs. Pando may not speak much English but he sure knows how to say "egg" in English. The plate of sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, black olives, and cheese is somewhat a refreshing accompaniment.







In as much English as Pando could speak, he comes to our table and says to me, Japan? Ahh, no, Malaysia, I say. Pando turns to his wife and speaks in Turkish "......... Malaysia .............". He returns later and asks us about the food, "Very good?". Yes, they're very good. What an adorable man Pando is.




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Kaymakçı Pando
Koyici Meydani Sokak
Beşiktaş, Istanbul


From the Beşiktaş fish market (located in a triangular site), walk down the street to left and Kaymakci Pando is around the corner on the left. Spot the bright blue shop with a red awning with white words: Kaymakli Kahvalti Burada. It is located across a kebap restaurant.

Grand Bazaar in Istanbul

If there are two quintessential tips for anyone visiting the Grand Bazaar or Kapalı Çarşı (kah-pah-luh char-shuh), it would be to (1) Master the art of price haggling, and (2) Be prepared to walk away if the seller does not agree with your asking price (and watch what will happen next!).

One of the world's oldest and largest covered bazaar, there are over 4000 shops selling items you would possibly want to take home with so that you have a piece of Istanbul or Turkey with you. Touristy? Yes. But locals frequent this place too.

Lest someone thinks the Grand Bazaar is difficult to navigate with thousands of small stores closely packed together-- lucky us-- stores selling the same or similar items are grouped together. Silver, gold, leatherware, pashmina scarves, carpets, ceramics, watches. Right before our eyes. Before I could even decide how many pashmina scarves and in what colors I wanted to buy, the decision was to pick the store I wanted to spend my money at. Eager sellers wished us friendly hellos and touted their items with the invitation to "come in and just take a look". Choices. Decisions. Decisions. Choices.

Haggling for price is common at the bazaar. In fact, it is expected. When a seller gives you an opening price, it is set high as bargaining is expected. We have been to markets in Asia where there is a similar culture of price haggling that is expected from both the seller and buyer. This is the fun part. If your final price to the seller hovers around 40-50% of the originally quoted price by the seller, that is about right. If you are suave in haggling the price, I'd say more power to you. Generally, the seller is more willing to lower their prices if you buy more than 2 pieces of items from them. Cash gives you greater power over credit card. We have to pay the fee, the seller will tell you. If the seller does not agree to your price, be ready to walk away. After all, there are plenty of other shops selling what you want. And yes, the seller knows that indeed there are many other shops selling what you want. When you start to walk away, the seller will magically agree to your price or at least agree to a price that is pretty darn close to how much you are willing to pay for. More importantly, pay what you think is worth for the item you want. A person might see more value in owning a pashmina scarf and hence is willing to pay a higher price for it. Another person might value it differently.

To take a break from the hustle and bustle of the bazaar, the Cebeci Han area offers an excellent reprieve. In this quiet courtyard is where you will find carpet repair shops and restaurants. Kara Mehmet Kebap Salonu makes excellent kebaps.

The Grand Bazaar has 8 entrances; entrance is designed to face different historic monuments in the city. If you're coming to the Grand Bazaar from Sultanahmet (Old City) or if you're taking the the tram to the Beyazit stop, you will most likely enter through the Çarşıkapı Gate. To leave a different way, walk north on Yağlıkçılar Caddesi inside the bazaar and head to Örücüler Kapısı gate. After you exit, there are more shops on Çarşı Caddesi. The street then becomes Uzunçarşı Caddesi where more untouristy shops await along this cobblestone street. This direction is also towards the Suleymaniye Mosque and the Spice Market.

Istanbul's Old City Pt 1: Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia

 
We just returned from Istanbul where everything we have heard and read about is true: Istanbul is beautiful. After we got done with the "mandatory" tourist attractions in the Old City referred to as the Sultanahmet area, we spent most of our time in the other neighborhoods, especially Beyoğlu (bey-yoh-loo) where we stayed, and discovered more and more about the city until we realized that there is so much deeper one can dig into the many layers of this city. It rained most of the days we were there and though it wasn't pouring rain, it was just one of those wet days where it was irritating enough when walking on the streets that you might want to use an umbrella. The Sultanahmet area is where the historical attractions congregate (Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace, etc) and they are so close in proximity to one another that on a wet day, it was easy to just let ourselves wander into each of them and immerse ourselves in it. Damp weather or not, it did not take the essence of the city away from us. This is the first of the many posts to come and in true spirit of our physical visit, the first few posts will be on these historical attractions followed by our further discovery of the city itself.

The Hagia Sophia (aya-sophia) is really quite a marvel. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was originally built as a church during the Byzantine Empire. The Ottoman Empire who later conquered Turkey converted Hagia Sophia into a mosque. When Turkey officially became a secular country, this structure was then turned into a museum. To date, Hagia Sophia is considered as having one of the greatest Byzantile-style architecture.

12 lambs representing the 12 apostles

One of the elements of Hagia Sophia that I find the most beautiful is the juxtaposition of Christianity and Islam within its great walls. Given its history of having been first a church and then a mosque, artwork bearing Christian images were kept even after the building was converted into an Islamic house of worship. Today we see Christian and Islam elements and motifs existing side-by-side and together they create awe. This isn't something we see often today, if at all.

Artwork depicting Virgin Mary with the child Jesus and a plaque with Arabic words.

To get up to the mezzanine level, walk through the dim passageways that will bring you up after multiple turns. Yes it brings you closer to the ceilings with faded artwork that carry much history but it's also where fine mosaic artwork are on display.

Photography tips: tripods are not allowed into the Hagia Sophia. All visitors must have their bags go through a scan and if they find a tripod in your bag, you will need to check that in and collect it on your way out. Prior to our visit, I've read reviews where some visitors have brought in their gorillapod or monopod without the scanning machine detecting it. We brought our gorillapod along and figured that if we had to check it in, it wasn't a big deal. The scan machines are smarter these days it seems and of course it detected our gorillapod. At the end of our visit, we realized that we could make do without it and still get pretty good shots. There are many columns inside the Hagia Sophia that you can use as a stability support for your arm when you take the pictures. Crank up the ISO as well and you will be more than fine. Go early to avoid the busloads of tourists.



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Istanbul's Old City Pt II: Sultanahmet Mosque
Istanbul's Old City Pt III: Yerebatan Cistern, Divan Yolu

Retreating in Las Vegas

As part of our yearly ritual, we spent the last weekend in Las Vegas. As much as this 9th trip to Las Vegas was part our summer tradition, it took quite a different turn from our previous trips.

Firstly, walking the Strip, late night partying, Cirque du Soleil shows-- been there, done that. This time, we spent most of our time relaxing in the hotel and vegetating by the pool.

Secondly, we usually stay at different hotels during each visit to Sin City. Last year, we loved the Encore so much that we promised to return there on our next trip. And we did. Most of our time last weekend were spent on the grounds of the Encore and the Wynn. The Encore itself is such a gorgeous hotel and the added benefit of being a hotel guest at the Encore or the Wynn which allows access and use of amenities at either hotel is a fantastic selling point. Both towers are connected to each other and Steve Wynn must have envisioned to build a city within a city when the place was constructed. Even if you don't want to try your luck at the casino table, it is hard to stay away from the luxurious pool and world class restaurants on the hotel grounds.

This trip where we almost "did nothing" was one of our most relaxing moments, ever. Now we just wished we could live that fantasy life in Las Vegas just a little longer.

For a detailed review of the Encore, read the original review here.

Nobu West Hollywood

When it comes to food, palette diversity could not be wider as everyone defines his or her own concept of what makes a restaurant worthy. We have friends who will always remain true to their ethnic cuisine and view with skepticism contemporary restaurants based on their ethnic cuisine. We have Chinese friends who, when in comes to Chinese cuisine, only patronize authentic Chinese restaurants. Similarly, we have Japanese friends who will only go to traditional Japanese restaurants. Nobu, who?

Where and how do we draw the line between what is authentic and not? There is no question of authenticity when a hole-in-the-wall Japanese restaurant is owned and operated by Japanese serving up traditional food items. What about when a Japanese restaurant takes on a contemporary spin in its food execution and presentation? Will it still be stripped off its right to authenticity? But what if the food item, as contemporary as it might be in presentation, is executed with ingredients native to the cuisine?

I ask myself that question all the time although I am never really wanting to seek the answer. Heck, even the most authentically delicious bowl of ramen you will find in Japan have grassroots from China. Chinese noodles were brought into Japan and gradually the bowl of noodle soup was shaped into Japan's very ramen. Where does the term authenticity begin?

Sure, when it comes to food, we want the true and original (or as they call authentic) flavors of the cuisine. Food can also be both authentic and contemporary at the same time. It is possible and Nobu is testimony to that. T and I are by no means sticklers to the term authentic and while we take great interest in beautifully crafted and creative foods in sexy restaurants, we also get tremendous fulfillment out of hole-in-the-wall and no-frills joints. A chef can stray from the traditionally expected way of cooking as much as he wants to with his innovation and creativity, and as long as the marriage of flavors work perfectly in execution, that is a winner to T and I.

Lest you think that Nobu gained its fame by being the most mentioned Japanese restaurant for celebrity sightings (and maybe that is partly correct), this place does deliver solid and fine Japanese food with uncompromising quality.

Our friendly server came over and introduced himself and saw our dSLR camera. I see that you brought your very nice camera. Don't worry, just take your time tonight and enjoy playing around with photographing your food. The food here is perfect for photography, he told us. Ah, yes, thank you.

Eva Sakura martini

The Eva Sakura martini is shaken and poured table side. The concoction is partly made up of Suntory Yamazaki 12-year whiskey and sake with flavors that make a smooth blend. Note that an order of this particular martini will have enough for a refill for your martini glass. After my cocktail was poured into my glass from the shaker, the server left the shaker on our table so that my glass could be refilled with the remaining cocktail. If you are planning to order a second and different drink during the night, be sure to pace yourself.

Shima aji sashimi with jalapeno

Having lived and worked in Peru for several during the early years of being a chef, Nobu Matsuhisa is said to incorporate South American ingredients into traditional Japanese cuisine. If this is supposed to be an indication of his cooking technique, we certainly did not see much of it, if any at all, as we looked over the menu that was mainly both traditional and modern takes on Japanese cuisine.

In fact, perhaps the one and only hint of anything being South American is the jalapeno in the yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno dish that is widely popular. On the night we were there, the restaurant had shima aji that was just freshly flown in and our server recommended that we get this fish to substitute for the yellowtail since they carry yellowtail everyday. We never want to pass up on daily fish specials and agreed to his suggestion. The shima aji sashimi with jalapeno dish was drizzled with refreshing ponzu sauce accompanied with a slight hint of citrus. A cross between mackerel and yellowtail, the shima aji was at its freshest that night.

Wood oven-roasted leek with miso aioli

The wood oven-roasted leek with miso aioli is a work of delicate art. Heavily charred on the outside, the outermost layer is cut opened to reveal the inside layers that were meant to be eaten. This inner stalk is carefully sliced into miniature bite sizes before the miso aioli is delicately piped onto the inner stalk.

Black codi with miso

Nobu has been synonymously known for the black cod with miso. In our server's words, restaurants including Koi have tried to emulate this signature dish of chef Nobu Matsuhisa. Who wouldn't want to? The cod here is prepared to result in a smooth-as-butter texture.

Squid pasta with garlic sauce

Don't be deceived by the the name squid pasta with light garlic sauce on the menu. It is far from being a pasta dish. For those who are unfamiliar, ika somen is one of the more traditional dishes in Japanese cuisine where ika (squid) is thinly sliced to resemble somen (fine noodles). Ika somen is generally found only in traditional Japanese restaurants. Taking a play on the traditional ika somen where squid is meant to physically resemble noodles, Nobu creates its own representation of this dish. By calling the dish squid pasta, pieces of squid are sliced so that they resemble shell pasta. Now, that's ingenious.

If you have ever tried to cook squid at home, you will know that it cooks very quickly and even the slightest hint of overcooked squid will turn rubbery. At Nobu, the squid pasta is perfectly charred and yet it maintains the slight rareness to it. Seasoned with shichimi (Japanese chili pepper), the delicate spice lingers on the tongue without being overpowering.

Miso soup with clams

As far creativity has brought Nobu to its success, this place also does the Japanese classics very well. The sweet potato tempura is fried to perfection and the layer of batter is just thin enough. The sashimi (pictured above: golden eye snapper, squid, kampachi) is maintained at the freshest quality.

Green teas are often refilled with a fresh cup of tea from the kitchen. Nobu makes a wonderful night out without being pompous. There are different gorgeous dining sections at Nobu and we made sure to wander through them.




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Nobu
903 N La Cienega Blvd
West Hollywood, CA 90046