Off Dotonbori, a quieter Osaka

Dotonbori may symbolize what Osaka is all about in its extremities of visual appeal with colorful and neon lit 3D signboards of restaurants and stores along the street. If this colorful and animated madness ever gets too much for your mind to process, veer off Dotonbori even if literally for a few steps and you will find yourself in a vastly different atmosphere. Narrow brick-lined alleys with traditional Japanese restaurants and food shops give an olden days especially along Hozenji Yokocho. Here is Hozenji Temple, that offers a serene reflection where people occasionally stop by to pay homage and make prayer offerings.

Osakan regional specialties

 

When in Osaka, live like the Osakans do. Eat yourselves to financial ruins, is the translation of kuidaore, a term many that many Osakans live by. Here's a list of some of the regional specialty:



Takoyaki
These octopus-filled balls are almost ubiquituous along Dotonbori at many yatai (street stalls).

Okonomiyaki
A cross between a savory pancake and pizza, one of the most popular places for okonomiyaki is at Mizuno, just off Dotonbori.

Ikayaki
Prepared like a crepe, the squid-filled crepe is folded and eaten as a street snack. The most famous place to get it among locals is at the basement level of Hanshin Department Store located just south of Osaka Station.

Kushikatsu
Deep fried skewered meats are the perfect complement with biru (beer). In Osaka, kushikatsu is made with beef. In Tokyo, it's made with pork. Daruma (several locations) is a popular choice.

Udon suki
The noodles are cooked in nabe, a form of Japanese hot pot. Udon suki originated at Mimiu Honten, a family establishment for over 200 years and running.  Another form of udon variation that is also an Osakan specialty is kitsune udon (literally translated as "fox udon"), served with thin pieces of fried tofu.

Other Osakan regional specialties include:
Fugu
Hakozushi (box-pressed sushi)

Mizuno

Going to Mizuno during an off-peak time at 3pm means we have the luxury of not having to wait in line for okonomiyaki, an Osakan specialty that is not quite a Japanese pancake nor is it quite a pizza. Okonomiyaki can be found in many places in Osaka (it's a regional specialty, after all) and this family establishment of over 65 years and running provides some sentimental value which also makes it one of the more popular places. During our later conversations with the St Regis bartender and a taxi driver, we learn that they are familiar with Mizuno among many other okonomiyaki restaurants in Osaka. 

We slide open the door and step into Mizuno. Instantly, we smell the savory aroma that is wafting throughout the entire restaurant. The space is small, just like other Japanese restaurants, and Mizuno only seats 9 people at a time at the counter. Despite it being an off-peak time, the seats are filled the entire time with guests leaving and coming. Seating is directly facing and along the elongated flat top grill. On the other side of the grill are two men preparing okonomiyaki right in front of the guests as they put in their orders. 

We start with the famed yamaimo-yaki prepared with their popular yam flour. As our choice of protein, we pick ika (squid). Other protein options include pork loin, pork slice, scallop, and ebi (prawn). The chef first grills the strips of ika, separately mixes the batter of yam flour in a bowl, and then pours the mixture over the ika. A handful of bonito flakes is scattered on top of the batter and then covered with a lid. The final steps include smearing the top with sweet sauce and Japanese mayo. The yamaimo-yaki is the perfect amalgamation of savory and sweet from the yam flour, squid, and dressing. Okonomiyaki is served right on the grill itself. Each person gets his or her own metal spatula and dishes out the okonomiyaki bit by bit onto his or her own plate.

 

 

Other popular items include maze-yaki (regular batter with noodle and egg), miduno-yaki (also regular batter with pork and eggs), and kimchi-yaki (made with kimchi).

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Mizuno
1-4-15 Dotonbori
Chuo-ku, Osaka

Kinryu Ramen

Standing by the street with a bowl of steaming hot tonkotsu ramen on a cold wintry evening in Osaka is one of the reasons that make going out in the cold okay and yes, even enjoyable. At this standing-only and street-side location of Kinryu Ramen, we're in our coats and getting comfort from the steam wafting through the air and towards our faces while watching the young man methodically prepare bowls and bowls of ramen.

Kinryu is easily recognizable by its signature 3-D green dragon billboard. Buy your ramen ticket from the vending machine and choose between regular tonkotsu ramen or with extra chashu pork. Hand over your ticket to the man and wait.

Bowls of chives kimchi, cabbage kimchi, and raw garlic are on the counter for anyone who wishes to add spoonfuls of these condiments over the ramen. The tonkotsu broth is lighter than the usually rich cloudy color but still flavorful enough. Sure, Kinryu may not win the most mind blowing ramen award but it still makes good ramen. And, really, this is what we need: a reliable go-to spot to refuel with a Japanese staple.

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Kinryu Ramen
1-7-13 Nanba
Chuo-ku, Osaka
Open 24 hours

Kinryu Ramen has several locations. This particular location is just outside Dotonbori. Another popular location is along Dotonbori itself and it has seating (outdoors only) on raised tatami mats.

Quintessentially Osaka: Dotonbori, Namba

Osakans live by the mantra "kuidaore" which translates to eat yourselves to financial ruins. We see that loud and clear especially along Dotonbori, a street that has become so quintessentially Osaka that people see it as the city's symbol. Osaka may not always be on a tourist's list of Japanese city to visit but to insiders and travelers who care about food, Osaka is too important of a city to miss. What Osaka lacks in terms of tourist attractions, it makes up for it in its food and entertainment. People go to Osaka to eat, and they should. And boy, did we have a tremendously good time in this down-to-earth city with people who really know how to live well.

Dotonbori is extremely visual and it is even more so in the evening when the colorful lights come on. Restaurant signs and billboards are very enjoyable to see. Colorful 3-D signs are the norm rather than the exception. Dotonbori is the perfect place to explore Osakan regional specialties. Yatai (street stalls) serve up fresh and steaming hot takoyaki (grilled octopus balls in batter). Restaurants specialize in okonomiyaki (grilled savory pancake) while others focus on fugu (pufferfish). Kushikatsu (deep fried skewers) is another favorite regional specialty. For those who crave kani (crab), the corner restaurant with its signature crab signboard is easily spotted. It's hard to tire of this energized street. You can return again and again yet never eat at the same establishment. Note: Among other regional specialties to look out for are yakiniku, kitsune udon, ikayaki, horumon, hakozushi.

Finish the night off with a walk along the south bank of the Dotonbori canal with more recognizable Osaka symbols such as the famous Glico Running Man. The neon lights from billboards reflect on the waters along the canal at night.