Showing posts with label dublin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dublin. Show all posts

12.12.2010

Queen of Tarts

What a gem in Dublin. Painted bright red on the outside walls and door, the Queen of Tarts isn't a place that one could easily miss. They have two locations; one on Cows Lane and the other on Dame Street. We had assumed that the location on Dame Street would be bigger since streets that come with the word "Lane" are usually small and narrow. But we were wrong to assume that. We stepped into the Dame Street location, realized how tiny (but cute) it was, and then only to see a sign at the counter that said "Visit our other location on Cows Lane for more seating".

We did not mind the limited seating at Queen of Tarts. It put us in the right mood and atmosphere of a quaint little European cafe that we wished we had back in Chicago. Petite size tables and wooden chairs are placed closed together. Vintage posters and plates are hung on the wall. We loved it already.


We lucked out and got seated at a table that was right beside the display of baked goods. The variety of items available was pretty amazing and we were spoiled by the choices. The variety of scones included blueberry, chocolate, and sultana.


Other sweet items included mince pies, macarons, madeleines, Victorian sponge cake, blueberry and raspberry crumble, and chocolate and pear tart. What a delight. We had coffee to accompany our food and I have to say that my latte was way less intense that I expected it to be. Our friend S had a latte as well and found it lacking in intensity that she ordered another coffee to give her some additional caffeine boost. I really loved the blueberry and raspberry crumble that came with a side of freshly whipped cream. The level of sweetness was just right with most of the natural sweetness coming from the fruit. It was perfect.




We were there at brunch hour and the tables were never empty. When we first walked in, the server was cleaning up a table that was just left empty which we very luckily got seated at. During our time there, as customers got up to leave, those tables would shortly be taken by incoming customers. I'm not sure about the afternoon crowd but I can only imagine myself enjoying a book at the cafe, among the waft of pastry smells, and enjoying a slice of goodness with a cup of afternoon tea.



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Queen of Tarts
Dame Street
Dublin 2, Ireland




12.10.2010

Dublin

Before we left for Dublin, we've had several people tell us "The Irish are incredibly friendly! They will come talk to you at the pubs!" While we didn't get any locals chatting us up at the pubs, we definitely experienced some Irish friendliness on our very first day there. We had just arrived and were too early to check in at the hotel, and so we headed out and happened to be standing at the entrance of St Stephen's Green fussing with our camera when an elderly man approached us. He obviously knew we were visiting just from seeing us fussing with our camera. And before we knew it, he started giving us the spiel of the history of Ireland, the must-visit tourist attractions, which streets they were on, and how to get there. That was incredibly nice of him-- he really wanted to tell us so much about Dublin, the city that he lives in, but the conversation got too long and we had to excuse ourselves from him eventually.

St Stephen's Green





We left for Dublin thinking that we could momentarily escape the cold back in Chicago but lo and behold, Dublin was experiencing colder-than-usual weather while Chicago was in the warmer-than-usual mode. It snowed for 3 out of 4 days we were there, with a combination of rain. On our first night, we were awoken by the sound of thunder (and rain) and only to find the streets totally blanketed with snow the very next morning we woke up. We don't know exactly how Dublin deals with snow, but of all the days we were there, the city of Dublin never salted the sidewalks which had snow turned into ice. The sidewalks were slippery and we lost count of the number of times we saw strangers around us slipping and falling. We've never had to be that conscious of every step we take when walking along Chicago sidewalks as they would unquestionably be salted when it snows.


Dublin was perfect for us as we only had 4 days. The city is walkable to many places and we walked everywhere. On our first day, we kept looking out for street names expecting them to appear on a pole and then only to remind ourselves again that the street names are displayed on the outer walls of corner buildings. This threw us into slight confusion on the first day but after awhile we got the hang off not searching for street name poles but instead to glance up at the outer wall of a corner building where the street name plate would be displayed.

Corner building with carved figures on Parliament Street
Retail along Grafton Street
The Irish love their Guinness. And so do we. People tell us that Guinness in Ireland tastes much better and we couldn't agree more. Perfectly smooth until the last gulp, we had at least a couple pints a day. We were told that pubs in Ireland know how to store Guinness in a proper and ideal way in order to maintain the quality of the beer. If you just want to grab a pint, you can easily do it anywhere. If you want a pint AND a view of the Dublin skyline, go for the self-guided tour at the Guinness Storehouse Brewery at St James Gate. How could we not pay homage to the Guinness Storehouse during our visit? The end of the self-guided tour at the brewery was the highlight: it ended at the top floor of the Storehouse with everyone given a pint of Guinness to enjoy while overlooking the Dublin skyline. Just lovely.

Roasted barley used to make Guinness

Waiting for the Guinness to settle

The husband T is an avid fan of Scotch whiskey but we couldn't for our lives miss out on the Jameson whiskey distillery either. Thanks to friends who've told us ahead of time to remember to raise our hands when they ask for volunteers at the beginning of the guided tour, we were selected to be what they call "Official Jameson Taster". At the end of the tour, we and a few other volunteers were given Jameson, Johnnie Walker Black Label, and Jack Daniels to taste and then state which we preferred. The husband T asked the guide, "Should we give the politically correct answer or an honest answer"? His taste buds remained true to JW, however, we were comparing whiskeys on different distilled levels here so it wasn't an all-fair comparison. The Jameson we tasted was aged for 5 years, whereas JW Black is usually aged for 12 years. I did prefer the Jameson whiskey but that was because I am not a huge fan of the smokiness of JW Black in general. If we were given either my favorite JW Gold or Blue, needless to say, that changes my answer. Another volunteer visiting from Northern Ireland stated his preference which wasn't among the three whiskeys: Bushmills. Not surprising, since Bushmills is from Northern Ireland.

Old Jameson Distillery
Perfect on toast
One can never get enough of beer in Dublin. Plus, the Irish are really really good drinkers I must say. Walking into a pub at 6:30pm, we saw that it was already packed like sardines. When did the party even begin? It felt like 11:00pm back in Chicago. Nightlife is awesome in Dublin, for early nighters like me.


I don't know how they do it but Irish food really is a perfect accompaniment to beer. Even for non-drinkers, the food is hearty and so fulfilling. I believe I've found my favorite beef and Guinness stew ever. The stew was served with Yorkshire pudding which was amazing. We usually try not to seek out incredibly touristy joints when traveling but Brazen Head is a place that we will recommend. Popular and known as the oldest pub in Dublin, Brazen Head doesn't let their food slide. Bull & Castle is a gastropub that is worth visiting. They have Irish comfort foods like stew and fish and chips, but also other items that we wouldn't normally find at pubs like smoked salmon with a side of fresh greens.

Beef and Guinness stew with Yorkshire pudding and mashed potatoes
Curim Irish wheat beer
Fish and chips at Bull and Castle
We never thought of Dublin as a place to be spoiled for baked goods, chocolates, etc, but there really was eye candy in many places we were at. Brunch at Queen of Tarts was even more fun. Staring at the baked goods was eye candy in itself... blueberry scones, pear and chocolate tarts, Victorian sponge cake, and the list goes on. Or we could step into any coffee shop and there would be scones screaming our names.

Croissants at Chocolate Butler

Raisin scone with jam
We've been spoiled by the museums in Chicago and also the ones in London. They are huge and covering every part of one museum in one day is almost impossible. The museums in Dublin, however, were nowhere as big as we expected. We managed to cover the National Museum of Ireland-Archaeology, and the National Museum of Ireland-Natural History, and the National Gallery in one afternoon. While the museums are nowhere near a 5-star rating, they are still by all means worth making a trip there to see the exhibits. Christ Church Cathedral was beautiful although we didn't get to see the crypt.

National Museum of Ireland-Archaeology
Christ Church Cathedral
The really wonderful thing about Dublin is that it is walkable everywhere especially since walking really is the best way to explore a city. The city is friendly, safe, and beautiful. We would visit Dublin again even if it's only for the Guinness. It really does taste better than the ones we get outside Ireland.

General Post Office
Tulips on sale along the sidewalk

Brown Thomas departmental store




12.05.2010

Temple Bar Food Market

Say "Temple Bar" and what conjures up in people's minds is Dublin's string of pubs and restaurants along several cobblestone streets accessible to pedestrians only. People define Temple Bar as the nightlife area of Dublin. It is true. However, on Saturdays, you will find a food market here in Temple Bar. What a refreshing way to think about Temple Bar. The food market is by no means huge but as avid fans of fresh and locally produced foods it was worth a visit for us.

Temple Bar Food Market

The food market was mainly made up of ready-to-eat food stalls with only one stall selling fresh produce. The fresh produce stall also happened to take up the most space among the rest of the food stalls. With only one fresh produce stall at the food market, thankfully this stall offers a great variety of produce ranging from purple beets to parslane to a great assortment of mushrooms.

Purple beets
Parslane
Assorted mushrooms
If you're looking to get a loaf of bread for breakfast in the morning (or even for lunch, for that matter), you can find it at the food market.

Loaves of bread goodness
Savory breads
Or, if you want baked goods for breakfast or lunch, the food market is also an answer. I have a vice for baked goods, being a person who loves baking and who can't resist a good baking recipe. Although we couldn't have possibly tried all of the baked goods we saw, having them as eye candy sufficed. I saw some baklava for sale and bought a piece for 4 euros. Saying that I love baklava is probably an understatement seeing how much I actually really really like this dessert. I didn't eat it right away and saved it for that night after we returned to our hotel. To my disappointment, the baklava wasn't that great. I could hardly sense the fragrance of rose water that is used to give baklavas an aromatic hint. Unfortunately, I also couldn't tell if it wasn't that great because I had kept it in my bag and waited to eat it until that night, or if, really that the baklava from that stall just wasn't all that great. I guess I'll never know.

Quiche varieties
Chicken and broccoli quiche
Our plan for that day was to have lunch on-the-go as we headed off to visit other areas in Dublin, and so we picked up a couple pieces of warm vegetarian samosas that were filled with potatoes and green peas. They were wonderful and was definitely a treat as we bit into the warm potato filling when the air around us was cold.

Vegetarian ethnic foods
If there ever was an award for Best Smelling Food, hands down it would go to the man preparing and selling slow-cooked pork with baby potatoes. We noticed the delicious smell right when we stepped into the market and the lovely smell wafted through the market. We would have tried some if it wasn't because our stomachs were already filled with meat from that morning's Irish breakfast which included pieces of bacon (which by the way actually has meat unlike the American bacon which consists of 90% fat and 10% meat) and sausages.

Slow cooked pork and baby potatoes
Pork roasting over fire
For health nuts, they will be particularly like this stall that offers raw food products. Just by looking at the foods on display, one would have thought they are sinful desserts and tidbits. Upon a closer look at the food labels, we realized that many of the items consisted of raw foods.



Feel like arranging a platter of antipasto for dinner? The food market it is. We found selections of various cheeses, olives, cured meats, etc.

Cow's milk cheese
Salami
Green olives
Red olives
Smoked cow cheese
And finally, there were green eggs to be found. But where's the ham??

Green eggs




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Temple Bar Food Market
Meetinghouse Square
Dublin